"10 FREE", "15 FREE", "22 FREE" Gel Products... What Does It Actually Mean?
If you're someone who pays close attention to the ingredients in the products you use, you've probably come across phrases like "10 Free", "15 Free", or even "22 Free" when shopping for gel nail products. For many consumers, these labels can influence purchasing decisions—but what do they actually mean?
The short answer is: there isn't one official answer.
Unlike terms that are defined by cosmetic regulations, there is currently no universally recognised industry standard that determines which ingredients must be excluded for a product to be labelled "10 Free" or "15 Free". Instead, each manufacturer decides which ingredients make up their own "free-from" list.
So, where did this trend begin?
It Started with the "Toxic Trio"
Years ago, much of the conversation around nail product safety centred around three ingredients commonly referred to within the cosmetics industry as the "Toxic Trio" (Intertek, 2026):
Formaldehyde & Formaldehyde Resin
Formaldehyde has historically been used in some nail hardeners to improve durability. It is classified by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) as carcinogenic to humans under certain exposure conditions. As a result, its use in cosmetics has become increasingly restricted and carefully regulated (UK Health Security Agency, 2024).
Dibutyl Phthalate (DBP)
DBP was commonly used as a plasticiser to improve flexibility and reduce cracking in nail coatings. Within the European Union, it is prohibited in cosmetics because it is classified as toxic for reproduction (European Commission).
Toluene
Toluene is a solvent that helps products apply smoothly and evenly. While it is not classified as a human carcinogen, prolonged exposure to high concentrations can affect the nervous system, which is why many manufacturers have chosen to remove it from their formulations (UK Health Security Agency, 2024).
How Did "3 Free" Become "10 Free"... and Beyond?
As cosmetic science evolved and consumers became more interested in ingredient transparency, brands began excluding additional ingredients that had attracted regulatory, environmental or consumer concern.
This gave rise to marketing terms like 3 Free, 5 Free, 10 Free, 15 Free, and even 22 Free.
However, as more brands adopted these claims, something interesting happened...
There was never an official list.
Unlike certifications such as Vegan or Cruelty Free, there is no regulatory definition that specifies exactly which ingredients must be absent for a product to qualify as "10 Free". This means two brands can both claim to be "10 Free" while excluding completely different ingredients.
In other words, "10 Free" isn't a regulated scientific classification—it's a manufacturer-defined ingredient list.
So... What's Usually Included?
Although lists vary between manufacturers, these are some of the ingredients most commonly found on "free-from" lists.
Camphor
Traditionally used to improve flexibility in nail coatings. While naturally occurring, camphor can be harmful if swallowed in significant amounts and has become an ingredient many brands choose to exclude.
Parabens
A group of preservatives used throughout the cosmetics industry. Certain parabens have been the subject of research regarding their potential hormone-like activity, leading to restrictions on some types in cosmetic products within the EU.
Xylene
A solvent sometimes used in coatings and adhesives. It is not classifiable as a human carcinogen, but excessive exposure may cause irritation and effects on the nervous system.
Ethyl Tosylamide
Used as a plasticiser to improve adhesion and flexibility in nail coatings. It is prohibited for use in cosmetic products within the European Union.
tert-Butyl Hydroperoxide
Used as a polymerisation catalyst during manufacturing. It is classified in Europe as a suspected mutagen, making it an ingredient many brands now choose to avoid.
Triphenyl Phosphate (TPHP)
Historically used as a plasticiser in nail products. Although not classified as a human carcinogen, it has been associated with skin sensitisation and has attracted increasing scientific interest regarding potential health effects.
Bisphenol A (BPA)
Best known for its use in certain plastics and epoxy resins, BPA has received significant public attention because of concerns surrounding its potential endocrine-disrupting properties.
Where Things Become Confusing
One of the biggest misconceptions within the professional nail industry is that "10 Free" refers to products being free from common nail allergens.
In reality, that hasn't traditionally been the case.
Originally, "free-from" claims focused largely on ingredients associated with historical regulatory concerns, environmental issues, or broader health considerations—not necessarily ingredients responsible for allergic reactions.
More recently, however, some brands have begun including ingredients such as HEMA and Di-HEMA in their "free-from" lists.
This is where the conversation becomes more nuanced.
HEMA and Di-HEMA are not classified as carcinogens or CMR substances. However, they are recognised skin sensitisers, meaning repeated skin contact can increase the risk of developing an allergy over time.
For professional nail technicians, this distinction is important.
A product that is labelled "HEMA-Free" is communicating something very different from a product labelled "10 Free". One refers specifically to the absence of a known skin sensitiser, while the other may simply refer to a manufacturer's own list of excluded ingredients.
Should "10 Free" Influence Your Purchasing Decisions?
"Free-from" claims can be a helpful starting point, but they shouldn't be the only factor when evaluating a professional gel system.
The quality of the formulation, compliance with cosmetic regulations, responsible manufacturing, transparent ingredient information, and correct professional application all play a far bigger role in product safety than a number printed on the bottle.
At Nail Order, we believe education is just as important as innovation. Understanding why certain ingredients are excluded—and recognising the difference between regulatory restrictions, consumer preferences and allergen awareness—helps professionals make informed decisions based on evidence rather than marketing alone.
Because at the end of the day, the number after the word "Free" doesn't always tell the whole story.
References:
Intertek, 2026. Toxic Trio Chemical Services. Available at: https://www.intertek.com/assuris/restricted-substances/regulatory/toxic-trio-chemical-services/ (Accessed: 9 April 2026).
UK Health Security Agency (2024) Formaldehyde: general information. Available at: Formaldehyde: general information (Accessed: 9 April 2026).
European Commission (n.d.) Dibutyl phthalate (DBP). Available at: https://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/opinions_layman/en/phthalates-school-supplies/glossary/def/dpb-dibutyl-phthalate.htm (Accessed: 9 April 2026).
National Center for Biotechnology Information (n.d.) Camphor. Available at: https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Camphor (Accessed: 9 April 2026).
European Commission, Directorate-General for Health and Food Safety (2012) Parabens used in cosmetics – citizens’ summary available. Available at: https://health.ec.europa.eu/latest-updates/parabens-used-cosmetics-citizens-summary-available-2012-05-07_en (Accessed: 9 April 2026).
UK Health Security Agency (2024) Xylene: general information. Available at: https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/xylene-properties-and-incident-management/xylene-general-information (Accessed: 9 April 2026).
National Center for Biotechnology Information (n.d.) tert-Butyl hydroperoxide. Available at: https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/6410 (Accessed: 9 April 2026).
National Center for Biotechnology Information (n.d.) Triphenyl phosphate. Available at: https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Triphenyl-Phosphate (Accessed: 9 April 2026)
UK Health Security Agency (2024) Toluene: general information. Available at: https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/toluene-properties-incident-management-and-toxicology/toluene-general-information (Accessed: 9 April 2026).
National Institute of Environmental Health Sciences (n.d.) Bisphenol A (BPA). Available at: https://www.niehs.nih.gov/health/topics/agents/sya-bpa (Accessed: 9 April 2026).
Food Standards Agency, 2024. BPA in plastic. Available at: https://www.food.gov.uk/safety-hygiene/bpa-in-plastic (Last updated: 4 July 2024, Accessed: 9 April 2026).
Michigan State University, Institute for Integrative Toxicology (2024) News from CRIS: Trending – Sulfates, 1 April 2024. Available at: https://iit.msu.edu/news/2024-4-1-CRIS-trending-sulfates.html (Accessed: 9 April 2026).