The science behind acrylic nails is both similar and different to the science behind UV curing gel nails, in this blog we explore that science!
Acrylic nails used to be the most popular choice for nail enhancements and are now gaining popularity again for their strength, durability, and versatile design options. Creating flawless acrylic nails requires an understanding of the science behind them. Lets explore the chemistry of acrylic monomers and polymers, the importance of bead wetness or dryness, and how mastering these fundamentals can elevate your work.
Why are acrylic systems known as L&P?
Acrylic nails are made by combining two key components: liquid monomers and powder polymers (hence the name l&p, or liquid and powder). Each part plays a critical role in the chemical process that forms a durable acrylic structure.
-Monomers: These are the liquid components of the acrylic system. Monomers are made up of small molecules designed to react and bond together when activated. In the presence of a catalyst (often found in the powder and commonly something such as benzoyl peroxide), monomers begin a chemical reaction known as polymerization.
Monomers are typically MMA (Methyl Methacrylate) or EMA (Ethyl Methacrylate) based. MMA based monomers are much less used these days due to their propensity for increased skin sensitization, eye and respiratory irritation as well as its lack of flexibility and ability to bond too strongly with the nail plate, potentially causing a severe trauma to the natural nail. These days EMA based monomers are more widely used and considered less of a risk.
- Polymers: These are the powdered components. Polymers are chains of molecules that form when monomers link together during polymerization. The powder contains pre-formed polymer chains and initiators that trigger the hardening process when mixed with monomers.
When monomers and polymers combine, they create a paste-like substance that can be shaped into a nail enhancement. This mixture hardens through polymerization, resulting in a strong and durable nail extension.
The Science of Bead Consistency
Bead consistency refers to the ratio of liquid monomer to powdered polymer in the acrylic mixture. Achieving the correct consistency is critical for ease of application and the longevity of the enhancement. Beads are typically classified as wet, medium, or dry based on their ratio:
- Wet Beads: These have a higher ratio of monomer to polymer, making them more liquid and runny. Too wet a bead can lead to issues like lifting or over-thinning if used improperly.
- Medium Beads: These have a balanced ratio of monomer to polymer. They are the most versatile and are typically used for sculpting nails. Medium beads provide the perfect mix of workability and strength.
- Dry Beads: These have a higher ratio of polymer to monomer, making them firmer and less pliable. Too dry a bead can cause brittleness if overused.
Why Consistency Matters
The ratio of monomer to polymer directly impacts the quality of the nail enhancement. A proper bead consistency ensures:
- Smooth Application: Beads that are too wet or dry can be difficult to work with, leading to uneven surfaces.
- Strength and Durability: The wrong ratio can result in brittle or overly flexible nails.
- Longevity: Incorrect consistency can cause lifting, cracking, or breaking over time
Tips for Perfect Beads
To achieve the right consistency:
1. Use the Right Brush: A good-quality acrylic brush with the proper size and shape helps control liquid pickup and bead formation.
2. Master Liquid-to-Powder Ratios: Practice dipping your brush into the monomer and then into the polymer to create consistent beads.
3. Adjust for Environment: Humidity, temperature, and ventilation can affect how quickly your beads cure. Adjust your technique accordingly.
4. Practice Patience: Developing a feel for bead consistency takes time. Regular practice will refine your technique.
Conclusion
Mastering the science of acrylic nails is about more than just technique; it’s about understanding the chemistry that creates stunning and durable enhancements. By learning about monomers and polymers, practicing bead consistency, and applying these principles in your work, you can achieve flawless results every time. With dedication and attention to detail, you can take your acrylic application skills to the next level.